Jindaiji temple is the second oldest temple in Tokyo, said to date back to AD 733. As well as centuries of history, it also houses the oldest statue of Buddha to be classed as a national treasure. Have a look at what I think is the best route for enjoying everything Jindaiji temple has to see.
The oldest temple in Tokyo is the very famous Sensouji Temple in Asakusa, Taito ward, and it is undoubtedly one of the most popular temples for tourists. It’s a very beautiful temple, and definitely worth a visit, but being so popular there is a touristy feel to it. Sensouji has lots of shops and stalls surrounding it and they sell Japanese-ish things. You can get souvenirs like fake swords, Japanese-ish printed kimono, and Ninja related goods like shuriken – even though these things really have very little to do with the temple at all.
In contrast, I haven’t seen so many tourists around Jindaiji temple. I guess because of the location – which is a bit inconvenient being quite far from the middle of Tokyo and far from the station. On the other hand, it isn’t as touristy and you can feel a real sense of old Japan around the temple. It’s still a popular place for local people to go and spend an afternoon or a slow Sunday.
For local communities all over Japan, there’s a long held tradition of producing folk crafts like wooden toys to sell, and, even today, many of these toys are sold as souvenirs. The souvenir shops around Jindaiji still sell these kinds of folk crafts, and it really adds to the feeling that I’ve travelled back in time to the Edo Period every time I visit the temple. The atmosphere of the whole area is very nostalgic and peaceful, and I really encourage you to visit and experience it for yourself.
If you go by car, most of the soba shops with parking offer free parking if you eat there, so I recommend eating before going off to visit the temple and explore the area.
One last thing, the temple has free Wi-Fi, so check out our connection guide How to use Jindaiji free Wi-Fi.
There is some remaining record of the origin and history of Jindaiji temple, though how accurate this is, we may never know for certain. According to historic scrolls, Jindaiji was established in 733 by Mankuu-Shounin (満功上人/ まんくうしょうにん) – shounin is a title given to monks who reach a very high level in the Buddhist religion. Mankuu-Shounin was the son of Fukuman (福満/ ふくまん). When Fukuman was young, he fell in love with a girl who was the daughter of a gouzoku (local ruling family). Her parents strongly disapproved of her having a relationship with Fukuman, so they hid her on an island in the middle of a great lake. Fukuman’s love for her and desire to see her again led him to pray to the water god, Jinsha-Daiou (深沙大王/ じんしゃだいおう). The god answered his prayer and sent reiki (霊亀/ れいき) – a mysterious turtle which is an omen of good luck – to appear to him by the lake and carry him to the island. After seeing that Fukuman was blessed and worthy enough to receive help from the god, the girl’s parents changed their mind and finally deemed him good enough for their daughter. They married, and she gave birth to Mankuu-Shounin who would go on to become a monk, later establishing Jindaiji in dedication to the water god that brought his mother and father together. Since then, Jindaiji temple is known to bring good luck in marriage to those who pay a visit.
Jinsha-Daiou is one of the guardian deities of Buddhism and is depicted as having a very unusual appearance. His hair stands on end, eyes open wide, and the corners of his open mouth split all the way to his ears. He wears a necklace of skulls and has a snake winding around his left arm. The face of a child appears on his belly, and he’s usually shown wearing hakama (traditional style of loose pleated trousers – you might recognise them from Japanese martial arts like Kendo) with an elephant face on the knee. The statue of Jinsha-Daiou isn’t open to public viewing, but there are many other statues and paintings to be found around the temple. My personal favourite is the cool picture of the red dragon on the roof in the Jinsha-Daiou Dou (深沙大王堂/ じんしゃだいおうどう).
Sadly, most of the original buildings in Jindaiji temple burnt down from big fires in 1646 and 1865, but the temple was gradually restored again over the years. The main hall, the bell tower, and the Ganzandaishi hall, Jinsha Daiou hall and Shoin hall (Drowing hall) were finally completed in 1841 .
不動明王/ ふどうみょうおう
Fudo Myouou (The king of immovable wisdom) is enshrined in this hall. This was rebuilt in 1884.
光昇地蔵尊/ こうしょうじぞうそん
Named after Koushou Jizouson who built this particular shrine.
手水舎/ ちょうずや
Chouzuya is the place to cleanse your hands and mouth before worshipping.
不動明王/ ふどうみょうおう
It's said that Fudo Myouou is an expression of the feeling of Buddha beneath the Bodhi tree as he defeated devils in his effort to reach enlightenment.
This is a training place for Shugenja (修験者/ しゅげんじゃ) - monks who lead an ascetic life in the mountains. Traditionally, monks stand under the water and meditate.
Head down the stairs from the Fudo hall, follow the path a little way, and you'll find the main gate on the right!
This is the oldest building in the temple and was built in 1695. The main gate is one of the few buildings that escaped the big fire that year.
手水舎/ ちょうずや
Chouzuya is the place to cleanse your hands and mouth before worshipping.
常香炉/ じょうこうろ
Joukouro is a large incense burner - people put money in the offertory box and pick a stick of incense to put into the burner. Then they bathe in the smoke to cleanse their body.
If you want to know the manner of visiting temples, see ( )
句碑/ くひ
There are many of these kuhi (stone poem monuments) to be found on the temple grounds. The one pictured is by Hokumei Komatsu.
This monument is dedicated to a poem by Kyoshi Takahama who was active from the Meiji to Showa eras (1874-1959). He was born in Ehime prefecture and he lived in Chofu city.
翠子地蔵大菩薩/ みずこじぞうだいぼさつ
Mizuko Jizou Dai Bosatsu - a guardian deity who comforts the spirits of aborted/miscarried children.
六畜観世音菩薩/ りくちくかんぜおんぼさつ
Riku Chiku Kanzeon Bosatsu - a deity prayed to in thanks for the 6 types of animals to be eaten, such as cows, chickens etc
The bell was made in 1376 and is the third oldest bell in Tokyo.
五大尊/ ごだいそん
Godaison are the five Buddhist deities. Fudo Myouou is usually represented as being in the middle with the four other gods stationed in the north, south, east and west. Nothing may be killed in this pond.
庫裡/ くり
Kuri (kitchen for monks). This was rebuilt in 1867. These days, it's not in regular use, but it's sometimes used to make soba.
You can see the irori (囲炉裏/ いろり) inside of the kuri. Irori is a sunken hearth used for heating and cooking that was common in old Japanese houses.
Jindaiji temple is a temple of the Tendai sect. So the principal image of Buddha is Houkan Amida Nyorai
(宝冠阿弥陀如来/ ほうかんあみだにょらい).
宝冠阿弥陀如来/ ほうかんあみだにょらい
This Buddha image is presumed to be from the early Kamakura period (1185~1333).
The Daishi hall is by the Godaison lake. Next, go up the stairs to go to the Daishi hall!
Grand master Ganzan is the highest monk of the 18th generation Tendai Buddhism. His statue is enshrined in this hall. It is usually closed to the public except during gokaicho (unveiling of an image), a special event held only once every 50 years.
The painting was drew by the famous ukiyo-e artist, Kyousai Kawanabe. If you're interested in his work, there is a Kyosai Kawanabe Museum in neighbouring Saitama prefecture.
毘沙門天/ びしゃもんてん
Bishamonten is inside of the hall. In India, he is a god of wealth. In Japan, he is one of the Seven Lucky Gods and is the god of treasure. His expression, weapon and armour may look warlike, but these are all for the protection of Buddha against evil.
だるま
Daruma is a red-painted good luck doll in the shape of the monk, Bodhidharma. The shape is from the legend that he continued zazen (坐禅/ざぜん - sitting in meditation) facing a wall for 9 years. So long that his limbs rotted and fell off. You can buy these dolls to buy. Make a wish and colour one eye, then, when the wish is granted, colour in the second eye.
A disciple of Buddha, Binzuru Sonja loved alcohol. Buddha warned him several times, but he couldn't stop drinking. Eventually, he was excommunicated. After that, he stopped drinking and practiced alone to serve the people. Finally Buddha allowed him to practice outside of the main hall. That's why his statue is always to be found outside of the main hall of temples. It's said that he tried with all his power to help people and so touching his statue will assist in healing your illnesses.
白山社/ はくさんしゃ
In the Edo period (1603~1860) there were 10 of these tiny shrines on Jindaiji's grounds. Now there is only this one, built in 1885, there are three gods enshrined here.
The wooden plaque in the middle represents Hakusan Gongen. Pray for marriage and the connections we make with other people in our lives.
The plaque on the left is for Inari Daimyoujin. People pray to him for help in agriculture.
The plaque on the right is for Sannou Gongen. This particular one is complicated to explain, but, put very simply, this god is enshrined here so that the surrounding land can be used and built upon.
The stairs are on the left side of the Daishi hall. Go up them to get to the Kaizan hall!
薬師瑠璃光如来/ やくしるりこうにょらい
Yakushi Rurikou Nyorai is enshrined in this hall. You can see two more god statues and two monk statues, including Mankuu-Shounin.
He was a poet, a monk of the Tendai sect, and also the founder of the Wild Bird Society of Japan.
You can see the entrance to the botanical garden right after leaving through the gate from the Kaizan hall.
乾門/ いぬいもん
Inui mon is a gate in the north west of Jindaiji. It will take you back to the Daishi hall. Also you can go to the Shaka hall from here but I recommend taking the main entrance - where there is usually an attendant.
You can see the flower shop on the right side on the way down the hill. The shop clerk is usually very funny and friendly.
You'll go down the hill and turn left at the first corner at the bottom of the hill. Then you'll see the entrance.
To enter the beautiful temple. I always think it’s more exciting to see the things if you could know the story of each deity and buildings before going.
This temple is so quiet even though it’s the second oldest temple in Tokyo. The atmosphere is amazing.
© 2019 Tokyo Bee Hive
